What is the difference between k1 and k2 kerosene




















Why is K1 Kerosene so pricey? At least in Cali An informal area for conversations, humor and observations that aren't necessarily strictly radio related. No discussion of politics or religion. Ads are not permitted.

At least in Cali by bobwilson » Nov Wed 07, pm I sort of got into old vintage kerosene heaters. What's more I like using these outside on the porch as they do throw out a lot of heat and frankly- they are nice to look at when its nighttime. Anyway, the only local kerosene I could find around where I live was at the hardware store These heaters actually go through the stuff a little faster than I thought.

I'd say that each time I use one they'll consume a quart of fuel. So a gallon for me with 2 heaters lasts only about a month. So I decided to look around to see if gas stations had any. No such luck. My only guesses are that for one, it doesn't get that cold here and kerosene heaters from what I gather aren't allowed to be sold for household use in California anymore. So I'm guessing there's limited demand for it so the prices are high.

At those prices I guess I'm glad I don't rely on these for actual heat. Re: Why is K1 Kerosene so pricey? It's just dyed red so it's not confused with diesel.

I can't see any difference between the two in my heaters. I do keep some of the clear expensive stuff for my lamps though. At least in Cali by Nick D. We used to have a kero booster for the house, but we took that to the scrapper years ago.

We knew it wouldn't sell, because K1 was getting unaffordable even then. At least in Cali by bobwilson » Nov Wed 07, pm The red stuff is supposedly the lesser quality. K1 is what's recommended for Kero heaters. Then again I don't use these in the house- outdoors only. How badly does the red dye Kero soot up the heater? At least in Cali by hergi » Nov Wed 07, pm K1 kerosene in bulk has the red dye in it so it's not confused with diesel since diesel has motor vehicle taxes and kerosene does not.

As far as I see it's the same stuff. If you want to run kerosene in your older diesel engines, you REALLY should add some biodiesel or engine oil back into it to make up for the lost lubrication. And, for your purposes, that puts you right back where you started. You'd probably be better off adding some two-stroke oil to off-road diesel if you're not using it on roads, why pay the road taxes?

From a small study conducted on various lubrication additives, it seems to be a nice cheap and effective way to add back lost lubrication.

You can find the study over at www. A B5 or B20 blend would more than make up for lost lubrication, and might actually give you a little boost in power. Yet another option is to filter your old used motor oil and run a little bit of it in your tanks, it's cheaper than either of those other options.

However, it may not lubricate as well as the other two options I listed - the study conducted up there showed virtually no change in lubrication, but that was at a very low concentration. Those are the most cost effective ways to add lubrication back to diesel for older engines that I know of, two-stroke oil or biodiesel or used motor oil. Personally, I use the two-stroke oil in my old Ford because there's no place around here that sells bio-diesel and I don't have access to much used oil or a setup to filter it right now.

Look around. Where I am you can still buy high-sulfer off-road diesel. You have to go to a petroleum dealer, rather than a "gas station". I know some people mix kero with diesel for winter, but not sure on the details. It is consistantly the only thing I see reccomended on diesel forums. We've been through this before; that SHIT is parafin! And paraffin works flawlessly in oil lamps. Great stuff. Kerosene is no longer low surfur. I don't have the stats, but the refiners had to pull the sulfur out somewhere in the gas column.

It used to be in the diesel, now its in the kerosene. Although 1-K is often has a lighter color than 2-K, you should always read the label to make sure you are buying the right one.

When buying a kerosene appliance, such as a heater, choose from those that were tested and listed in accordance with Underwriters' Laboratories UL Standard A heater should cool for a minimum of 15 minutes before refueling. This operation should happen in well-ventilated area, away from ignition sources.

The boiling point of kerosene lays between degrees Fahrenheit and degrees Fahrenheit. Kerosene's melting point is -4 degrees Fahrenheit and its relative density is 0. As kerosene is also insoluble in water, it floats on it when the two substances are mixed. Kerosene can autoignite when the temperature reaches degrees Fahrenheit. Related Articles Properties of Kerosene. What Is Diesel Fuel?

Ingredients in Carburetor Cleaners.



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